Pattern Review: Concord T-Shirt by Cashmerette

If you read my previous post, thanks for continuing to join me on my journey. I am sidelined with a stomach bug today, and decided to catch up on blogging (from the couch) about the few things I have worked on this year. On to the pattern review!

The first item on my #MakeNine2019 list is the Concord t-shirt by Cashmerette, with the goal shirt being one using the black and white knit fabric kit that came with the pattern.

Of course I first sewed a muslin, though the process is always done begrudgingly, with the hopes that everything works out the first time and it can be a wearable item. As much as I love sewing and the process of finding the perfect fit for my body, I feel like the muslin process is a waste of time and fabric because it frequently does not produce a wearable garment, but something that ends up in the trash.

I chose a mint jersey fabric with black “chips” I had in my stash, from Girl Charlee back when they did the original Knit Fix. I have in my notes that it is a rayon spandex, and it is much lighter weight than the Cashmerette kit fabric is, but I figured it would work ok. I have a bad habit of buying the EXACT weight and drape fabric for a muslin, even knowing it may not work out. Maybe this is why I hate making muslins and think it is a waste! So, part of my goal for 2019 was to sew from my stash, and “make do.”

This would only be my second knit pattern, and I was trying to think ahead. After holding up the pattern and doing a tissue fitting of the straight size 12, it looked like the bust line would be too high, as would the waist line. I decided to just go ahead and add 1″ through the bust line, similar to the advice I was given on the Cashmerette Appleton.

Unfortunately, I did not take into account that this pattern was drafted with different stretch in mind due to the different nature of the shape. While things lay great directly over my bust, I had huge folds under my arms.

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I ended up emailing Cashmerette directly again, and they are the most wonderful people, who lovingly reminded me I should be trying a new pattern as is before making major changes.

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Since the rayon spandex “grows,” I decided to lay the sides flat against the original pattern and trim off the seam. The waist and hip ended up approximately a size 10, but again, the fabric stretch meant it still fit well. It was actually easy to trim off and then restitch.

So I ended up with a wearable muslin that I actually wear to work all the time. The next step was to sew the shirt in the black and white stripe fabric. I put it off for a while, but in May the @sewcialists issued a #sewbrave challenge. The goal was to push yourself to sew something that scares you a bit. Well, stripe matching definitely is a little scary. I ended up using one pin along each back stripe edge and did a pretty good job!

The one area that I need to work on is the shoulder area. You can see from the picture below, there is a bit of pooching along the seam line. I think what I need to do is attempt to grade the shoulder and sleeve area down to a size 10, leaving the bust, waist, and hips at the size 12. You can also see my helper attempting to “solve” the problem.

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I ended up getting some inexpensive rayon spandex fabric at Joann in a purple floral print that is a little heavier than the Girl Charlee I first used. It is so soft and comfy to wear, but I cut the straight size 12 again instead of trying to mess with the shoulder for now. By the end of the day it is a little baggy in the shoulder and sleeve area.

Here is the official review that I will be posting on Pattern Review:

Pattern Description:
The Concord pattern is a t-shirt made for stretch knits.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, but more snug (which is how I like it). The example photos are much looser around the waist and hips area.

Measurements/Size Used:
UB: 34″
B: 40″
W: 33″
H: 41″
Size cut: 12 G/H

Were the instructions easy to follow?
I did not have any problems understanding what was to be done, even though I had never made a t-shirt before.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I really wish that the pattern went down to a size 10, or even 8. I realize that Cashmerette is for “curvy” sewists, and by that they mean larger than the standard designer’s average, but I consider myself curvy. I have curves. I also struggle to fit into the standard average, both for patterns and ready-to-wear. I need the G/H cup patterns now, when I kinda fit into their size 12, and I needed them when I was in high school and comfortably fit into the smaller Big 4 pattern sizes.

Fabric Used:
Rayon spandex for versions 1 and 3, and unknown jersey for version 2.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
At the moment, I ended with none, but I plan to attempt to grade the shoulders and sleeves down to a size 10 for a better fit there.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, and yes! In fact, I find myself thinking a closet full of Concords might be nice.

Conclusion:
I really like this pattern, and depending on the fabric chosen, the top can be basic or really dressed up.

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